Platinum welding joins two platinum surfaces by melting them together without solder. It is used in making and repairing platinum jewelry, usually with a torch or laser at extremely high temperatures (around 3214°F). Jewelers must wear dark protective eyewear due to the intense heat and brightness.
F.A.Q's
What does handmade jewelry mean?
Handmade jewelry is crafted entirely by hand without molds or casting, requiring artisans to shape, form, and assemble materials manually. Tools like cutters and drills may be used, but only when guided by hand. It represents the highest level of craftsmanship in fine jewelry, demanding great skill to work with precious metals like gold and platinum. The example shown is a handmade necklace featuring a rare black opal called the “Midnight Sun.”
How can I accurately measure my finger size?
A common question asked is how to properly size a finger. While it’s not an exact science, a free guide is available for download to help.
Download: Ring Sizing Guide
Which gold karat is the best?
Karat measures gold purity, with 24KT being pure gold. Common markings include 10KT, 14KT, and 18KT, showing how many parts out of 24 are pure gold. Alloys are added for durability, color, and cost control.
18KT gold offers the richest yellow color but is less durable and more expensive. 14KT is the most popular in the U.S. for its balance of durability and affordability. 10KT is often seen as lower quality, being brittle and harder to repair.
What should I do with my old gold?
Jewelry Designs offers an alternative to selling old jewelry cheaply by transforming your gold into new custom pieces. You can even swap yellow gold for white gold. They melt or exchange your gold, and you only pay for labor and refining, with unused materials returned to you. Diamonds and gemstones can also be reused to create a unique, personalized jewelry design.
What does penny weight mean?
A penny weight (dwt) is a standard unit for measuring precious metals. It is a division of a troy ounce, with 20 penny weights in one troy ounce. One pennyweight equals 1.555 grams.
What is the difference between karat and carat?
There is often confusion between the terms Carat and Karat or CT and KT.
Karat is a term used to indicate gold purity. In many countries it is a legal standard to stamp gold jewelry with markings such as 10KT, 14KT and 18KT. The Karat stamp indicates the purity of the metal. Pure gold is 24 karat so the number preceding the KT marking indicates how many parts out of 24 are pure gold. For example 14KT indicates that there are 14 units of pure gold mixed with 10 units of other metal. These alloys are added to control durability, color and cost of fine jewelry.
Carat is a unit of weight used to measure diamonds and precious gemstones. In ancient times traders used carob seeds on balance scales to determine the weight of gemstones. As time passed the term carob evolved into the word carat and an exact weight was assigned. In modern times the carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram. A carat is broken down into 100 units known as points. Stones that weigh less than 1 carat are indicated by a decimal point. An example is that a half carat stone weighs .50ct.
Are my diamonds safe?
Many people experience the panic of discovering a missing stone in their jewelry, often due to worn prongs or channels that loosen over time. Everyday activities can cause this wear, eventually leading to lost gems, including valuable diamonds or heirlooms.
The solution is regular care: have fine jewelry inspected and cleaned annually by a trusted jeweler. They can detect wear, recommend repairs, and, if necessary, suggest remounting. Building a relationship with a qualified jeweler ensures your jewelry stays secure and avoids unnecessary repairs.
What is diamond melee?
“Melee” refers to small diamonds weighing .18 carats or less, making up the majority of global diamond use. Some can be as tiny as .0025 carats, with up to 400 stones equaling one carat, and still cut with 58 facets.
These diamonds are often used as accents or in clusters like pavé settings. Their value ranges from $50 to thousands per carat, depending on quality, with well-cut melee adding brilliance and distinction to fine jewelry.
What is the difference between platinum and white gold?
Platinum (Pt) is a rare, malleable precious metal valued for jewelry, industry, and currency. It has been used ornamentally since the 1700s in Europe, though it dates back earlier in history. Platinum melts at 3,215°F, making it difficult to work with.
Gold (Au), used for thousands of years, is the most common jewelry metal. White gold is created by alloying pure gold with copper, nickel, and zinc, then rhodium-plated to mask its yellow tint.
Platinum jewelry is usually 95% pure, heavier, and more valuable than white gold. Though softer, it resists metal fatigue and retains its natural white color without plating.
Platinum advantages:
Keeps its white color permanently
Resists erosion and lasts longer
White gold advantages:
Costs much less than platinum
More resistant to scratching, especially in wide designs
What Metal is my jewelry made from
Jewelry is usually stamped with markings to show metal content, often placed in hidden areas to avoid affecting design. These stamps may indicate gold, platinum, silver, or other materials, and help identify authenticity.
How to find markings:
Rings: Inside band at 9:00 or 3:00 positions.
Chains/Bracelets: On clasps, connectors, or ends.
Bangles: Inside or on spring bars.
Pendants: On the back or bail.
Pins/Brooches/Stick Pins: On the back, edge, or shaft.
Earrings: On hinges, backs, or reverse side.
Watches: On case backs or clasps.
Markings meaning:
Gold (Karat system): 10K = 41.7% gold, 14K = 58.5%, 18K = 75%, 22K = 91.6%, 24K = pure.
Gold (Millesimal system): 333 = 8K, 417 = 10K, 585 = 14K, 750 = 18K, 916 = 22K, 999 = pure.
Platinum: 950 = 95% platinum, 900 = 90%, Plat = 95%, etc.
Silver: Sterling/Ster/925 = 92.5%, 999 = pure.
Non-precious markings: GF (gold filled), GP (gold plate), HGE/HGP (heavy electroplate), vermeil (gold over sterling), silver plate, etc.
Caution: Some stamps are deceptive. Non-gold items may be falsely stamped, or parts like clasps and backs may have been swapped. Only a trusted jeweler can properly test and confirm metal content.
Why are platinum prongs best for engagement rings?
Platinum is highly valued in fine diamond jewelry for its purity (95%), durability, and white color that enhances diamonds. Unlike gold (58.5–75% pure in jewelry), platinum is softer but more resistant to erosion, cracking, and metal fatigue. Though prongs may bend with wear, platinum remains the preferred choice for quality jewelry due to its strength and ability to showcase diamonds beautifully.
How is gold soldered?
Gold soldering is the process of joining two pieces of gold using melted gold solder, commonly used in jewelry making and repair. It can be done with a torch, furnace, or machine. To meet FTC guidelines, the solder’s purity must match the karat of the gold being joined, and solders are available in all karats, colors, and melting points.
How is platinum soldered?
Platinum soldering is the process of joining two platinum pieces using melted platinum solder, mainly for making or repairing platinum jewelry. It can be done with a torch or machine, but it is more challenging than gold soldering because of platinum’s very high melting point.
How is platinum welded?
What is Rose or Pink Gold
Rose gold is made by mixing pure 24K gold with copper, which gives it a pinkish tint. Silver is sometimes added for durability and workability. Common mixes include 18K rose gold (75% gold, 25% copper) and 14K rose gold (58.5% gold, 41.5% copper-silver alloy).